Day 31: Harbourside (28/02/2011).

Slightly hung over, we surfaced to see Ewa momentarily before she left for work while Nick waited for workmen

We chatted late into the morning before catching the North Shore line 6 stops into the city. On advice, we disembarked one stop early at Milson’s Place in order to walk across SHB (Sydney Harbour Bridge) to The Rocks historical quarter. Few cities have so many iconic sights crammed into such a small space. The bridge, opera house, ferry terminal, sky line and bays are all taken in by a single glance but each is a wonder in its own right.

We walked from the Milson’s Place station but immediately lost sight of the bridge. At only a mile long and 200 feet high, it was entirely understandable. Walking for 20 minutes in the wrong direction, we reached an avenue that gave a clear view of the receding structure and we paused for the humour before reversing our course.

The bridge appears to be a compact structure from almost any vantage point other than on it. In reality, it is very large indeed, towering over the harbour and supported by enormous piers at either end which must have been the largest structures in the city for many years after they were erected; only relinquishing this position in the face of the boom in sky scrapers in the 1960’s. The boardwalk is patrolled by security officers and is the haunt of runners and tourists, commuters and BASE jumpers, hence the security.

The Opera House is equally captivating. Completed in 1973 it resembles the collapse of a giant lotus flower. Iconic from a distance, close up it shows its age through the post-modern architectural design used in its construction. Inside, it is regarded as poor in terms of acoustics but it has found a place in the hearts of the city’s residents and visitors alike and the swarms of snapping tourists will ensure that it survives indefinitely, regardless of the improvements that could be made.

The CBD (Commercial Business District) is really the star of the show. The city sprawls across dozens of bays and promontories that fan out from the main harbour. CBD’s have sprung up in 5 locations throughout the extended conurbation, dominated by the city and the north shore. Sky scrapers huddle together in close proximity, making the most of the available space. Growth is blocked by the national parks to the north and the Tasman Sea to the south. A T-shaped expansion has developed to the north-west which now spreads upwards of 30km from the shore line. There is a bitter rivalry between Sydney and Melbourne for dominance. The former is numerically superior but the latter claims the cultural heritage of empire. Their inhabitants speak ill of each other and of the offerings of their respective cities. The impression is that Melbourne lacks the natural wonders of Sydney but is westward looking. Sydney aligns itself with the Asia-Pacific basin and appears the economic power house but its rival will always know that while the suits may not be sharper, the blood is bluer.

The extended hot spell came to an end in the morning and ominous grey clouds gathered over the bay. Rain drops the size of pennies fell, at first in ones and two’s but quickly in a rush that sent natives and tourist alike dashing for cover. For 10 minutes stair rods fell from the heavens and ricocheted off the harbour side, soaking the dreadlocked Aborigine playing the amplified didgeridoo and the Brill creamed Caucasian playing amplified rock guitar, all the same. When the downpour stopped the ground immediately began to steam and the bird life emerged from cover and returned to its aggressively scavenging ways.

We wandered the waterfront past the Custom House and ferries of the harbour and across the SHB to Darling Harbour, home to the city’s aquarium, maritime museum, I-Max and shopping centres.

We whiled the whole day on the waterfront, together with countless other people drifting around the irregular coastline, marvelling at the high rise sky line and contemplating emigration to a city and a country that, at first glance, seems to have captured and nurtured the elusive essence of national pride and work life balance whilst at the same time developed a world beating economic miracle that has defied the GFC.

The harbour is plied by countless craft from ferries to cruise liners. The ubiquitous jet-boat concession promised the best 30 minutes to be had in Sydney for $95. Lonely business men may disagree. Yachts create a picture post card image as they pass the SHB under full sail. Navy ships exit the dock yards, one bay along from the Opera House, skimming Fort Dennison that sits in the harbour roadway opposite the Botanical Gardens promontory.

We walked through the CBD, admiring the high-rise skyline, dotted with world beating brands advertised from the roof tops and which project corporate power by neon glare, across the bay when darkness falls. Down Macaurie Street and past the Sydney Hospital we ambled, stopping from time to time to take in the contrast of 21^st century tower blocks jostling for position around the 18^th century heritage of the City Library, Town Hall, Prison and Mint. After donating the appropriate sum, we rubbed for luck on the polished nose of the bronze boar that raises money for the city hospital. Crossing Hyde Park we paused for a spiritual moment in the Cathedral of St Mary. Constructed at a time when Sydney was struggling for identity, it is worthy of attention and hosted Pope Benedict’s meeting with the Archbishops New South Wales in 2009. The mayors of the city are buried in the crypt and the triptych sculptures of the Trinity added in 2009 for the Papal visit have added a classical texture to the space that was previously lacking.

By the time we returned home, we were exhausted. Ewa cooked an inspirational dinner of seared salmon in honey and cracked pepper served with pearl couscous and roasted vegetables followed by home-made banana ice cream. The Sydney birds piped up during dinner and substituted volume for tunefulness.

The skies clouded over again and the setting sun cast fire to the horizon. When the rain came, it was heavy but not prolonged. A rainbow appeared for the last moments of daylight but was extinguished by the arrival of dusk.

We talked of noisy neighbours and recalcitrant builders, of job stresses and life plans, before retiring.