Puno.
It sounds a bit rude.
We parked by the pedaloes and ate deep fried chicken and chips as a series of substandard buskers thumbed their way through the local classics. Peruvian tourists promenaded up and down the pier, sometimes ignoring and other times being drawn in by the menu flapping matrons of the waterside restaurants.
It sounds a bit rude.
We parked by the pedaloes and ate deep fried chicken and chips as a series of substandard buskers thumbed their way through the local classics. Peruvian tourists promenaded up and down the pier, sometimes ignoring and other times being drawn in by the menu flapping matrons of the waterside restaurants.
After lunch we were taken under the wing of Norma, a local guide who took us aboard a slightly more robust version of our Isla Del Sol transport and ferried us deep into the heart of the Uros reed bed where indigenous peoples have lived on reed islands since the 11th century.
What unfolded was a tortuous example of what Clare called tourist hell and even Izzy grudgingly fell in with but only because her contract required her to do so.
What unfolded was a tortuous example of what Clare called tourist hell and even Izzy grudgingly fell in with but only because her contract required her to do so.
The Uros genuinely do live on reed islands tethered to the bottom of this 15m deep part of the lake. Reeds genuinely do form the basis of their economy and their crafts and they genuinely do live in a large but sustainable community of 2,000 people, miles out from the shoreline on wads of reeds up to three metres deep.
But modernity has crept in and if not corrupted their traditional ways, it has certainly introduced a commercial imperative that influences their relationship with the boat loads of tourists who arrive on a daily basis.
They sing traditional songs for the groups that sit in a wide arc around the small island but somehow Michael Row Your Boat, Twinkle Little Star and Waltzing Matilda find their way into the repertoire. They dress visitors in traditional costumes for a dance to flute and drum but phrases like ‘sexy girl’ and ‘Britney’ sneak into conversation.
Few indigenous people can remain immune to the influence of the modern world and the Uros have fared better than many in preserving their heritage whilst adapting to new trends - but the penny per ride reed boat crossing and the solar panels sit uncomfortably with the ancient traditions that we saw.
Returning to dry land we covered the 300m deep lake, with an off-shore wind behind us, in short time.
Booked into the Ayullu hotel, we headed for dinner at the Inca Bar in central Puno. Al Paca filled the menu but when push came to shove there were only three portions left. Two of the less forgiving left the restaurant in disgust and the rest of us enjoyed the best food that we have experienced in South America.
Booked into the Ayullu hotel, we headed for dinner at the Inca Bar in central Puno. Al Paca filled the menu but when push came to shove there were only three portions left. Two of the less forgiving left the restaurant in disgust and the rest of us enjoyed the best food that we have experienced in South America.
The slight shower in la Paz had ended the unbroken run of dry days since we had arrived.
The lightning and downpour that arrived with our bill signalled a change in the weather that did not bode well for the four days of trekking on the Inca trail that lay ahead.
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